Port Meadow is one of the most beautiful and compelling places in Oxford, with its gorgeous greenery and the rich blue hues of the Thames. It’s a favorite walking place for many residents of the city…and when you visit it will certainly become one of your favorite places in Oxford too!
About Port Meadow, Oxford
Port Meadow is an ancient grazing land and the largest common land in Oxford. Its heritage stems back to the 10th century, when King Alfred gifted the Freemen of Oxford the use of the land in return for their help defending his kingdom against the Danes.
The Freemen’s collective right to graze their cattle and animals here free of charge is recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086 and this right has been exercised ever since. Because the right to graze animals here still exists today, you will likely encounter herds of cattle and horses during your time here.
Port Meadow runs from Jericho to Wolvercote and is beautiful throughout the year…although it often floods during the winter so bring your wellies if you visit during this season!
Meet the Port Meadow Horses and Cows
The cows that graze here are sweet and mostly keep to themselves, but the horses are more inquisitive and interested in people.
The ponies here are naturally adapted to the conditions of living in Port Meadow and find plenty to eat. In case you are worried about them living here all by themselves, it is comforting to know that they are checked on at least once a day by one of the owners and are also inspected regularly by officers from the RSPCA.
Historically, the Oxford Freemen (and the cattle!) aided World War I efforts by allowing Port Meadow to be temporarily turned into a military training ground. Each morning they would move the livestock out of the path of military planes to allow them to practice here. While flying is not allowed here today, there are plenty of other activities that are acceptable and make for a pleasant pastime—including playing Frisbee and barbecuing.
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The cows and horses are friendly, although caution is advised if they seem skittish or unhappy. Most of the animals are naturally inquisitive, though, and happy to say hello…and can also be quite curious about cell phones. So feel free to say hello back and even take selfies with them! We learned that some aren’t opposed to hugs either!
In case you want to wash your hands after petting the animals, there are bathrooms with running water and soap at the parking lot near Godstow Road.
Picnic in Port Meadow
With such stunning open vistas, Port Meadow is also a beautiful place to picnic on a nice day. Pack a lunch or at least pick up dessert from the best cake place in Oxford, Barefoot Bakery! Barefoot’s selection of cake changes daily, but they often have an excellent Pear and Lychee cake that I highly recommend.
If you do bring a picnic, be prepared that you may have visitors…because apparently horses like Barefoot cake too! They also love any other snacks you bring and occasionally try to eat your backpack if you have food inside. They aren’t really aggressive, just insistent that they like people food too…so you’ll have to guard your food carefully!
Experience the Inception of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland
If you love whimsical and strange children’s literature, you likely already know that Oxford is a hotbed of sites related to Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. But did you know that Port Meadow features in the origin story of this much-beloved classic?
Charles Dodgson (better known by his pen-name Lewis Carroll) was a mathematical lecturer at Christ Church with Henry Liddell, who was the dean of Christ Church and the real-life Alice’s father. On July 4th of 1862, Dodgson and Reverend Robinson Duckworth took Alice Liddell and her sisters Lorina and Edith for an outing on a rowboat in Port Meadow.
As they made their way slowly down the river from Folly Bridge to Godstow, the sisters requested Dodgson tell them a story. So to keep them entertained, he began to make up the tale that we know now as Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.
While you meander through the meadow or sit on the dock and trail your feet in the water, it is special to think of the exciting literary creation that was sparked in this place!
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Sailing on the Thames
Like Dodgson and Alice, boat aficionados today still enjoy being on the water of the Thames. On some days you can find groups of sailboats participating in a Wind in the Willows-esque race, and on others you can watch university students in rowing teams on the river. With Bossoms Boatyard just nearby, there’s plenty of boat activity happening here. (And of course, punting is one of the best activities in Oxford!)
Whether you take a trip down the river or simply watch others on their journeys, the Thames is a central part of Port Meadow and Oxford life and is a beautiful and calming presence.
Get Dinner or Drinks at The Perch
The Perch is a historic riverside pub and freehouse—hidden away within the trees on the west side of Port Meadow. It’s the perfect location to pause on your walk and enjoy a meal or drink, with a cozy ambiance and outdoor and indoor seating.
While The Perch has an actual “restaurant” section, they also have wooden picnic tables spread out across an open area. Sitting in these spots allows you to enjoy more of the outdoor ambiance while getting something to eat or drink.
On weekends in the summer the Perch fills up quickly, but they also add an outdoor station for burgers, cocktails, and the like that allows for more casual and summery dining rather than the more organized dining in the restaurant section.
Visiting Port Meadow, Oxford
If you decide to visit Port Meadow, there are just a few details you need to keep in mind. Because of the large animals living here it is important to follow countryside code and carefully close all gates that you walk through so no animals escape or are harmed. Dogs are allowed in the meadow, but must be kept under control.
The meadow has entrances from the south and the north, so you have a couple choices on which direction to explore the meadow. Walking from Oxford will likely take you to Walton Well Road in the south, but if you are driving I recommend entering from the free Port Meadow car park off Godstow Road in the north. There is also a car park off Walton Well Road, but this one charges for parking so the Godstow Road car park is your best bet.
There’s plenty to see and enjoy at Port Meadow—from meeting new animal friends, to enjoying the view, to sailing, hunting for different wildflowers, or picnicking. This is definitely worth adding to your list of things to do in Oxford. And when you visit, you are sure to find that this is the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing time outside of the main city!
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