Keeper of the Light for a Night: West Point Lighthouse

While the name Prince Edward Island likely conjures up images of its most famous literary resident, Anne of Green Gables, the island is resplendent in itself and worthy of a visit whether or not Anne was your childhood hero and kindred spirit.  One unique location on the island is West Point Lighthouse—a designated heritage site and Canada’s first inn located within an active lighthouse.

West Point is still an active lighthouse today, maintained by a non-profit organization so that it can continue to be used as a navigational aid.

But the lighthouse is also used as a museum and inn and welcomes guests from all over the world between the months of June and September.  This means you have the opportunity to sleep in a lighthouse, enjoy the sound of the ocean from your room, and visit the lantern room and museum after-hours.

Rooms and Organ at West Point Lighthouse

The rooms are furnished in a quaint and comfortable country style and feature ensuite bathrooms.  All rooms in the inn and lighthouse look out toward the Northumberland Strait from the West Point shore, while the eleven rooms of the inn connected to the lighthouse have walk-out decks.

The two rooms located in the actual lighthouse tower (where I stayed) do not have walkout decks, but do have the added bonus of actually being in the lighthouse and allowing you to climb up through the museum sections at night and in the early morning before other visitors arrive.

There are cute details all throughout the inn, including my personal favorite: the railings on the stairs that look like little lighthouses and even radiate light from their own glass “lantern room”!

Additionally, the organ played by Mariah (the wife of the first lighthouse keeper) has been returned to the parlor where she played it in the 1800s!

According to records, many evenings with visitors would end with Mariah playing “Let the Lower Lights be Burning” on the organ while everyone gathered around to sing.  This hymn’s chorus reminds of the lighthouse keeper’s purpose, stating:

Let the lower lights be burning!
Send a gleam across the wave!
Some poor fainting, struggling seaman
You may rescue, you may save.

West Point Lighthouse Museum and Lighthouse Keeper History

Alongside the cute details and history of the inn, the museum delivers more information about the lighthouse keepers and the operation of a lighthouse as well as ocean navigation.

West Point Lighthouse was first lit on May 21, 1876, with 8 lamps and a multitude of reflectors revolving 66 feet above the water.  Nowadays, the lamps have been replaced with an electric light that revolves automatically (and which it is not wise to stare at directly as it is very bright).

The lighthouse is square, with a pyramidal sloping shape and was originally a part of the keeper’s dwelling (although the use of electric and automated lights has mostly eliminated the need for a keeper today).

In the early days the tower’s stripes were bands of red so sailors could also navigate by it during the day, but in 1915 these red bands were painted black as it was thought black would resist fading better and be even more visible than red in the daylight.  Thus, ever since 1915 the tower remains painted with the black bands that you see today.

The first keeper, William McDonald, served at West Point Lighthouse for fifty years alongside his wife Mariah and with their eight children (two of whom were actually born at the lighthouse).  During the winter, they lived at a farm nearby but when the ice began to melt each year they would move back to the lighthouse to help with navigation when sailors returned to sea in the spring.

Their story is told in the museum alongside that of the second lighthouse keeper, Benjamin MacIsaac, who served for 38 years and maintained the light year-round during World War II to aid pilots flying from the British Commonwealth Air Training facilities nearby.  MacIsaac only retired because electricity finally reached West Point which allowed the light to be automated in May of 1963, and thus the job of lighthouse keeper became obsolete.

Interestingly, West Point Lighthouse only had these two official lighthouse keepers throughout its pre-electricity tenure (although several people have helped and served at the lighthouse in years since to maintain it and make it an attraction for tourists today).

Accessing the Lantern Room

Accessing the lantern room of the tower requires ascending several flights of steep steps, with landings containing information on the keepers and lighthouse between the different floors.  With sturdy railings, the stairs are very safe…although if you have issues with heights and don’t like climbing up into your own attic at home, walking up and down the stairs may make you a little nervous (it certainly did for me).

The view from the top and the information throughout the various landings makes the climb worth it, though, and it is comforting to see all the precautions they have taken to ensure the steps are safe to climb.

At the top, you can examine the light up close (while it isn’t on, of course!) and wander around the circular room to see views of the shore from above.  Feel free to observe and examine the light, but since it is an expensive piece of machinery be cautious near it and keep your hands to yourself.

As you look out the tower windows, the brilliant red-colored sand contrasts with the deep blue of the ocean and is especially pretty on a clear day.

Although the beach is public and visitors come specifically to see the museum and enjoy the ocean views, in the mornings and evenings the beach almost feels private as you walk along the shore and enjoy the calm water.

If you are seeking a sense of remoteness and solitude in a setting of great beauty, while looking for somewhere unique to spend a holiday, West Point Lighthouse is an excellent choice.

With a beach right outside your window and plenty of trails to walk or hike nearby, this inn and museum acts as an excellent base to allow you to relax in a scenic location, enjoy sunrise or sunset, and appreciate the rich history of lighthouse keeping.

So if you want to be (unofficially) the keeper of the light for a night, check out West Point and enjoy your time on this beautiful island!

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